If knitting on four needles the pattern is as follows:-

Cast on 24 stitches.Divide and put 8 stitches on three needles.Work 6 rows in twisted rib as follows: Row 1: K1, P1Row 2: K1 into back, P1 repeat Row 2 four times
Eyelet Row: Next row, yarn forward knit two together around - these are the eyelet's.
Knit even in stockinette stitch for 20 rows.
Toes:K2tog on all needles (12 stitches)knit one round even.K2tog on all needles (6 stitches)Knit one round even, thread needle through and gather toe stitches, this gives more shaping.
I then crocheted a chain, an "I' cord could be used instead and or ribbon, but knowing that they may need to be tightened and they can then wear them as they start to grow.

Two needle method.Cast on 24 stitches,Rib as above for 6 rows.Eyelet Row: K1, yarn forward knit two together across the needle,Purl back.Work even in stockinette stitch for 20 rows.Toe:K2tog across row. (12 stitches)Purl one row.K2tog across row. (6 stitches)Purl one row.Remove from needles and draw closed.Catching each knot on the side do an invisible seam.
Make cord as above insert and enjoy.

Materials:

4 ounces of Briggs & Little worsted weight wool. 1 hank of wool roving. This is usually purchased in a large ball and there is more than enough in one ball to make at least three pairs of socks.

Needles 4mm double pointed - set of (4) Needles 3.25 mm double pointed - set of (4)
Size: Lady's Size Large
Gauge: 5 stitches to the inch on larger needles

Working with wool roving:- When working will wool roving pull off do not cut three inch sections. I take the wool roving and pull two seperate strands from the ball, then I tear it off as one piece, and tear off at least 18 sets for each round, only tearing them off as the rounds come up.
Pattern: Using smaller needles cast on 48 stitches ( 16-16-16) work in twisted rib for 20 rows or desired length of cuff.

Twisted rib:- Knit into the back of the knit stitches and then purl. I work in knit one, purl one as it makes a tighter rib.

Change to larger needles and knit three rounds.

To start pattern: Knit two, holding the two strand thrum knit it together with the next stitch. I hold mine on top of the stitch and knit as usual. I use a thrum stitch every third stitch.
On the next round knit in back of the thrum stitch and this will lock the stitch in place.
Repeat the above pattern of three plain rounds and one thrummed round until desired length. In my case it is 8.5 inches from the beginning.

Heel: I do not put the thrum stitches in the heel as I feel it would make it more difficult to put work boots on, but you most certainly can if knitting for snow boots.
Flap: Knit 12 stitches and place remaining stitches on needle two., turn slip one, purl 12 stitches and place remaining stitches on needle two. Working on these stitches only work flap as follows. Row one -* slip one, knit one,* repeat across row. Row two, slip one purl across Repeat until heel flap measures 2.5 inches or desired depth. End with purl side facing.
Turn Heel: Slip one, purl 12, purl (2) together, purl one, turn. slip one, knit (3), knit (2) together, knit one, turn. Slip on, purl (4), purl 2 together, purl one, turn. Repeat until you have 16 stitches on needle.
With same needle continue and pick up and knit 12 stitches down the right side of heel, work across the stitches on the front needle, pick up and knit 12 stitches on the left side of the heel.
Needle one - left side of center heel - knit to with three stitches of end of needle, knit two together knit one, knit across center needle, on next needle knit one, slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over, knit to end of needle.

Next round knit even.

Repeat the above decreases until you have 48 stitches remaining. Redistribute on needles as follows (16-16-16) Knit three rounds, start thrummed round. Repeat for desired length or in my case 6.5 inches.

Shape Toe: Needle one:- Work to last three stitches, knit two together, knit one. Needle two- knit one - slip one - knit one, pass slip stitch over, knit to within last three stitches, knit two together, knit one. Needle three- knit one, slip one, knit one, pass slip stitch over. Round 2- Knit even. Repeat above until you have 24 stitches remaining. Leave 12 inch length of wool for grafting. Graft toe.

Grafting: Place 12 stitches on each of two needles. Using a wool or darning needle* place needle into first stitch on front needle as if to knit and slip off needle, put needle in next stitch on needle as if to purl and leave on needle, let yarn go under the first needle and working on the back needle, insert needle into first stitch on back needle as if to purl and remove from needle, insert needle into next stitch as if to knit and leave on needle.* Go under the needles and back to the front and repeat from * to * until you have one stitch left and secure in place.

The thrummed socks are time intensive but well worth the effort. They are wonderful knit as slippers as well, just make the slipper top shorter.

I am also working on a pattern for arm and leg warmers for accessible wear.

If you are allergic to wool or want to use up scraps of acrylics or odd balls, you can use this pattern and using the approximate three inch lengths of scraps the same way knit some multicolored slippers for those you love. I would recommend putting non skid soles on the bottom for safety sake.

-This pattern is copyrighted as a Linda Boudreau original and may be distributed free of charge, but not to be kitted and resold without express permission of the originator. North Kentville Knits - 1998 copyright.

Miss Peace Sheep

You will be using a smaller than normal knitting needles for this weight of wool, this will make the lattice holes between the stitches smaller and the batting will not show through Read the pattern carefully as the sheep is three dimensional , all parts are reversed, you knit one side then the other The pattern is similar, only larger, in the haunches, the upper being the smaller, the lower being taller The tail is knit with two sections sewn together The face is knit with reverse sides The hooves are knit the same except the lower hooves are knit longer to compensate for balancing the body and adding the socks Do not overstuff as the loop st designed for this pattern, no referred to as Sherpa/loop st fills in very nicely and makes for a very plump sheep. Sew the pieces together as you go so that you do not mix them up. I have done this on numerous occasions while designing this pattern and it was most frustrating. To the best of my knowledge, and not following anyone else's pattern other than a vision of a sewn pattern, this is the first time this sheep has been produced in knitting. My first sheep was knit of a natural colour with black as the contrasting colour. I will knit the next one with black and use steel grey for the features. Have fun and make the sheep with a friend like I did. Lady Diana and I have formed a lasting friendship. Share him/her and enjoy!
Linda Boudreau, North Kentville Knits
Materials: 3 x 100gm skeins of Briggs and Little 2 ply worsted weight wool in natural. 1 x 100gm skeins of Briggs and Little 2 ply worsted weight wool in black.
1 x 100gm skeins of Briggs and Little 2 ply worsted weight wool in red, used 50gms.
1 x 100gm skeins of Briggs and Little 2 ply worsted weight wool in blue, used 50 gms natural.
1 lb. bag (plus a handful) of polyester stuffing.
1 pair of large wire framed glasses, or a piece of clothes hanger wire.
1 x 12 inch length of wooden doweling with round knobs to fit ends for needles or an older pair of knitting needles to cut down to 6 - 8 inches each.
Knitting needles size 3.25mm, (US size 3, UK size 10) and one pair of 5mm knitting needles (US 7, UK 6)
NOTE: To make this achievable by everyone, all knitting, including the socks are knit on straight knitting needles.
Sherpa St Insert needle into the next st knitways, wrap yarn over forefinger and needle a total of four times, start to pull through and place onto the right hand needle, being careful not to pull all the way through, give a gentle tug and knit the next st.
There will always be a sherpa/loop st above a knit st every row. This pattern is knit from the bottom up so that all loops fall down.
The finished sheep measures 16 inches sitting and 24 inches around the upper girth where the haunches are.
Body: make 2 - reverse one Using smaller needles cast on 12 sts
Knit one row
Begin Sherpa/loop st, *K1, loop 1, rep across row.
Note: You may include an edge st at the beginning and end of each row, but this is not included in the numbers in the pattern. I chose not to and it worked out well. Diana chose to and she preferred hers so it is a matter of preference.
Increase one st each end of knit row every 4th row until you have 30 sts
Knit even in pattern until piece measures 5 inches from beginning
Decrease one st every fourth plain knit row until you have 24 sts
Knit even in patt until piece measures 9 inches from beginning
Increase 8 sts at the beginning of the next row (this is for the front neck and is meant to be sloped)
Keeping pattern correct, work across the row
Decrease one st on the opposite end (end not increased on) on every other row until 28 sts remain
Knit even in pattern until work measures 14 inches from beginning
Knit 3, *k2tog across the row
Cast off remaining sts purlways as this gives a more curved edge.
Make another piece the same, making sure that you increase the sts on the end so that the neck slopes in the correct direction, and that the increases and decreases follow the first pattern piece
Set aside until the tail and neck are completed
Head: make 2 - reverse one Using contrasting wool and smaller needles, flip the top neck edge back and pick up 12 sts along the cast off edge, make sure they are picked up under the loops so that the loops will fall over the join when knit
Increase one st in each st across the row (24sts)
Purl one row
Increase one st at each end of this row (26sts)
Work in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl) for 8 more rows, ending with the right side facing
Knit 2 together to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1
Purl 2, purl 2 together, purl to last 3 stitches, purl 2 together, purl 1
Repeat last 2 rows until 17sts remain
Knit even in stocking st for 5 more rows, ending with right side facing
Knit to within last 3 sts, knit 2 together, knit 1
Purl one row
Repeat last 2 rows until 14 sts remain
Work even in stocking stitch for 8 more rows, ending with right side facing
Knit 2 together across row
Cast off purlways loosely
Make another piece the same, making sure you reverse all shaping
Set aside for the moment
Tail: make 2 Using smaller needles and main colour, and continuing with Sherpa/loop st, cast on 6 sts
Knit one row
Loop one, knit to end
Repeat last 2 rows for a total of 2 inches
Knit, increasing one st at each end of the row (8sts)
Loop one, knit to end
Knit even until work measures 4 inches
Cast off knitways
Make another one the same
Assembly Directions for Body, Head and Tail Place the tail right sides together and, keeping the loop st out of the way, stitch around, leaving an opening at the top.
Stuff very lightly and shape down with the squeezing of the tail between your hands. Insert this approximately three inches from the base of the body main part bottom.
The main body is kidney shaped, so make sure it is placed at the correct depth as the sheep will be sitting
With right sides of the body together, stitch head section together very securely, then stitch around entire body, making sure that loops are not caught in the seams, and catching the tail in the back seam.
LEAVE an opening for stuffing in the centre front.
Stuff lightly, so that the stuffing does not show through the loops.
You will have the body stuffed firmly in the head, the neck area is curved as she is looking down, the upper body and the lower body would be stuffed no heavier than a hot water bottle as there are upper and lower haunches that will go on to support this weight.
Stuffed and measured, the fullest part of the kidney shape on the bottom of the prototype measures 21 inches and the fullest part of the head measures 10 inches, just to give an idea as to the amount of stuffing.
Now close the opening using a ladder st, which is take one stitch from one side, pull, go to the opposite side and repeat until the opening is closed. Secure the wool end in the loop/Sherpa and cut close
Upper Haunches: make 4 - reverse 2 (lower haunches are in brackets) Using main colour and smaller needles, cast on 10 (14) sts
Knit one row
Loop 1, Knit 1 across row
Note:Directions in brackets are for reverse side
Increase 1 stitch on the beginning (end) of the next row
Knit 1, loop 1 across row
Repeat last 2 rows until you have 16 (20) stitches
Decrease 4 (6) stitches at the beginning (end) of the next row
Increase 1 stitch on the right (left) side, knit to end 13 (17) stitches
Loop 1, knit 1 across row
Dec 1, k to last 2 sts, knit 2 together 15 (21) sts
Knit 1, loop 1 across the row
Knit 2 together across row, this forms the upper haunch curve
Cast off loosely purlways
Make a total of 4 as described above, reversing 2. Set aside
Upper Hooves: make 4 (instructions for lower hooves are in brackets) Using contrasting colour and smaller needles, pick up 7 stitches from under a loop stitch row, this is done with wrong side facing, and is picked up on the even edge that has been maintained before the decrease to form the curve in the haunches
Increase 1 stitch in each stitch across the row, 14sts
Work 14 (24) rows stocking stitch, ending with right side facing
Knit 2 together across the row
Cast off purlways
Make 3 more the same, either attaching to the haunches or knitting separate and adding later, depending on your preference
Assembly directions for Haunches and Hooves With right sides together, and being careful not to catch loops, stitch around entire haunch leaving a small opening in the bottom part for stuffing.
Stuff very firmly, but not so firm that it shows through the stitches as the weight of the knitting needles will rest on the upper haunches and the weight of the sheep itself will rest on the bottom haunches.
The prototype measures 12 inches around the fullest part of the upper haunches and 6.5 inches on the hooves.
Stuff the hooves so that the wadding or stuffing does not show through.
Ears: make 2 The ears are long and loopy
Using main colour and smaller needles, cast on 3 stitches
Loop 1, knit 1, loop 1
Increase one, k to last st, increase 1 (5sts)
Repeat last 2 rows until you have 11 sts
Work even in pattern for a total of 5 more pattern repeats (10 rows)
Do not cast off
Break main colour leaving a tail for sewing and add contrasting colour. Knit straight without shaping until you are close to the top of the ear, then knit 2 together across the row. This forces the ear to rill to the inside and point away from the head.
With wrong sides together slip stitch all around the ear, fold the bottom end to form a pleat and sew to the head with the ear pointing about one inch down from the centre head seam
Assembly Now add the haunches, sit Miss Peace Sheep up and using the wool doubled, if it will not be used or tugged about, if not use dental floss, take a two inch stitch on the inside of the lower haunches, push the needle through to the other side and repeat, pass the needle back and forth and tighten so that they will sit straight, wrap the yarn/floss tightly, go back through again and secure. This makes the sheep movable.
For eyes take a quarter and draw a circle on a white piece of felt, add a point each side of the circle about one half inch away and connect the dots to form an oval eye shape. Cut two out and appliqué to the sheep. I then go over these with wool using a satin stitch and I am assured of perfect eyes every time. Now take a dime and trace onto a black piece of felt, cut it out and repeat. When finished, put a small white dot in each eye for a highlight.
On the mouth form a wide spaced "V" at the very front, if using a dark colour such as black, use a steel grey for the mouth.
For the glasses, if you have not purchased a ready-made pair, bend a piece of wire over a pencil to form the bridge for the nose, now using a piece of doweling or a pill bottle, make two loops each side for the lenses, then pull the wire directly back for the arms. Tack in place with small stitches on the face.
Add a sheep's bell with a ribbon or tassel of wool.
Nan's Shawl
Tension: 5 stitches and 8 garter stitch rows equal one inch on larger needles.
Using colour of your choice cast on 4 stitches
Knit
*Knit 2, yarn forward, knit to end (5sts)
Repeat from * until you have 20 stitches on the needle.
Lace hole row: *Knit 2, yarn forward, knit 2 together repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit 3
Keeping continuity of pattern, and increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of each row, work a lace row every ten rows. Continue until you have enough stitches to go round your sheep comfortably.
Cast off loosely knitways.
You now have a triangular shawl that, when placed on the sheep, has a turned back upper edge to form a shawl collar and meets perfectly in the front to be closed either with a tassel or a pin of your choice. Make a tassel if desired and attach to base of shawl. Fringe if desired.
The above shawl pattern is a Diana MacDonald original to accompany Miss Peace Sheep
Nan's Little Blue Sockies
Tension: 10 stitches and 16 rows equal 2 inches on smaller needles.
Using smaller straight needles and blue worsted weight wool cast on 32 stitches
Work 6 rows in twisted rib (K1, P1 rib, but knit and purl into the back of each stitch)
Knit 1 row
*Knit one, yarn forward, knit 2 together, rep from * to the last stitch, knit 1
Knit 2 rows garter stitch. This forms the lace or beading row
Knit 1 purl 1 for 5 more rows, ending with right side facing
Work one more lace hole, or beading row
Work 10 rows knit 1 purl 1 ribbing
Knit 2 together across the row
Cast off
Sew back seam
Insert ribbon or cord through the first row of eyelets and place on the sheep.
Make 2
The above sock pattern is a Diana MacDonald original to accompany Miss Peace Sheep
For simplicity you can cast on 22 stitches and knit for approximately 10 inches, or pick your own favourite pattern and knit the strip that will be placed on the knitting needles attached to the sheep. I have used the old shale pattern from the Mary Thomas Book of Knitting.
I chose to make my needles from doweling and sharpened it in a pencil sharpener, then cut them about 6 inches long and added a knob to each end. You can either cross them in the centre of the knitting, so that it does not slide off, or get brave as I did and remove the needles, slip them through the inner hooves, insert into knitting, dividing in half, and glue at centre, then take a long strand and insert back into the back haunch so that it looks like the sheep is knitting from herself.
I have never designed a toy or animated character before, but this has truly been an inspiration and pattern from someone stronger than I and I am proud to say I have named my sheep out of my love of the two most important people in my life. She shall be called "Sherpat", after my daughter Sheralee and my wonderful husband Patrick, who is my best critic and was kind enough to say, it does look like a sheep. Have fun!
Linda Boudreau
Copyrighted for reproduction only to accompany main pattern and not to be distributed for profit. This disclaimer must accompany the pattern. This pattern, along with the Miss Peace Sheep pattern cannot be kitted or sold, but is for personal use only. It may, however, be passed out with the purchase of wool to knit same.