Charity Knitting

This afghan is basically the same as the last one except there are stadium stripes placed in the rows.

This one was knit for a larger person and required more yarn, not sure how much as it has been a while ago that these were knit. I know that the needles were 100 cross and that the yarns were light grey ragg and a deep burgundy. This was also crochet edged in grey.

Charity Knitting

This is a very simple stadium style child's blanket.

ISM machine knit keyplate 3.5 or 5.

Materials - 3 - 100 gram balls of main colour.

3 - 100 gram balls of contrasting colour.

Crochet hook sized 4.50 for crochet edging as above.

Cast on 100 stitches using waste yarn. Knit 6 rows.

Add main colour and knit for ten rows.

Change to contrasting colour and knit for ten rows.

Continue until afghan is the length that you prefer on it this case 150 rows.

Edge with single crochet. Work 3 single crochets in each corner and then work half double crochet around to finish.

Charity Knitting

Here are several charity blankets that I have knit on the ISM knitting machine, but they can also be done by hand, and have edged with crochet.

Charity Knitting

Here are several charity blankets that I have knit on the ISM knitting machine, but they can also be done by hand, and have edged with crochet.

ISM Knitting machine on Keyplate 3.5 or 4. Hand knitting needles would be metric 5.5 or us 6.

Materials - 3 - 100 gram balls solid colour ( navy )

3 - 100 gram balls verigated colour ( blues )

Crochet hook sized "F" or 4.5 or knit in garter stitch.

Knit four panels, joining as you go or they can be hand joined later by slip stitch or crochet.

Using waste yarn cast on 45 stitches..

Knit 6 rows.

Change to navy and knit 50 rows.

Change to verigated and knit 50 rows.

Continue in the above manner until you have a total of 6 squares. Cast off loosely.

Make a second strip identical to the first.

Make two more strips but start with the verigated navy and then change to navy.

You will have knit a total of six panels. Either join as you go on the machine and or slip stitch

the seams together, matching the squares.

Edge around with a single crochet and work 3 single crochets in each corner. Repeat round with a double crochet, and finish with one more row of single crochet. This keeps all of the sides flat.

Block and allow to set.

Enjoy............ This is a great scrap yarn project.........as you can change each time you run out of yarn and make a very colourful lap afghan or childs blanket.

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Threads of Love

Threads of Love

A little off centre, as the base of the leaves should point down, but it is getting there. I have had to sketch and resketch using the purple fad out pen as I went along as I did not want to use a permanent marker or pencil as I have a habit of changing directions mid stream.

This is in a six inch hoop and the actual line of the circle runs where the leaves are on the bottom in to the base of the crystallized ribbon and to the tops of the ribbon stamens and down the side. I am not sure if I will fill in or not or just let the beauty of the fabric show through. I love the way the petals jump off the background, and in this one I did use a metallic polish to tone down the colour on the centre but it is a reminder of a beautiful face cab from a beautiful friend.

I hope to work all in cabs, and may leave this one once the leaves are done and start on a smaller scale until I decide whether to mat or frame this one as the front cover. I chose the lily as it is the only flower I have ever been able to grow in my garden. I now have sketches done for pansies, roses, daffodils etc., but want to lean in a different direction white on white. and pendant sized using the same chain on each pendant, same swage so that when closed the book would look like a bookmark and each page would be a different medallion that would fit into the tassel beaded fringe and match the beaded chain. Oh, well, that is for today anyway.

Atkins Challenge

Finally taking some time to get ideas on the blog. This is the sketch that I drew to bring out a different type of crativity in the type of work that I do. Normally, I am very structured when it comes to beadwork, plan it out and have a plan before I start, and keep it simple.

My first thought on a journal was to keep it in the round, and seeing as I had some cd's lying around decided to see what I could do to take advantage of these. First I sketched the tiger lily in on the right hand side as I remembered how many times I had cut one out in sane quilting, so the sketching for this one was simplified. I then added a small face that was a gift from my special friend " Leslie Ehrlich ", hope it is spelled correctly this time, she is from pinyoncreek blog. I just loved it.

I then remembered reading about coloured pencils and crayones being used to do in backgrounds for a general idea on colours, so off I went for some orange, green and darker tones of green and then the inspiration for the visual leaves came into play. I had already decided on a ribbon that would float across the design, under the lily and then end as falling from beneath it onto a smaller crystal and using some french beading techniques.

In my case more is better so I added more leaves than I thought I needed and knew that somehow I was going to have to figure out how to make the petals stand out three dimensional.

I had just finished doing a few pieces from a Ruth Wilson book and in it she used a water lily with three dimensional petals as well as the outline stitch in a two to three bead drop, I loved it. I then knew how the stamens would be added.

On my first try it was all on white and no matter how hard I tried it did not jump out at me, so I pulled all of the beads off and decided to use some overdyed orange to pink silk as a top fabric and the pattern as a liner with some linen as a backing and I am pleased.

I have the face on, beaded around, all of the ribbon and crystals done, and leaves done as well. I just finished adding the petals and now I am working into what I want to do with this shape.....leave it round, or turn it into another shape, and that won't be determined until I decide for sure what size my next project will be as this could always be my journal cover.........and the next ones could be made smaller. I think this is probably the hardest part of the creating, trying to be original and keeping on track.

Challenge in Beadwork

Nearing completion for the beaded part of the challenge I have decided that I like to work in three dimension, but that if I plan on doing something major with this and incorporating beads into all of my works I will have to work smaller.

I have taken some photos of the initial set up and design and will share when I get the camera out again. I must admit that this has been so much fun, and a challenge in itself. Now, if I can just go beyond the borders and do some creative work with colours and sizes of beads.

Perhaps this time I will use a large face cab and work that into this piece. I will try and scan and share the finished model tomorrow, until then happy beading. Now off to sketch a design for a hooked mat that dh says caught his eye on televison the other night. The blessings of being able to create. God is good.

Challenge

I have decided to try the challenge of doing a journal page a month and seeing what I can come up with in beadwork that is original and realistic and useable for me. I am so conformed to basic shapes and art to wear that I have to try and break loose in order to justify beaded art.

I thought long and hard before signing up as this is a venture for a year and while I procrastinated in my mind my heart was saying you can do it. Everything in life does not have to be wearable or functioning in order to serve a purpose, and who said a journal had to open in one unit.

I will share my journey with you as I go along and share some pictures as well. I have decided to call this one " round to it ". I have so many designs and ideas floating in my head and so many little things that I have wanted to try and now I am allowing myself to break loose and take the plung and get " around to it ".

My first piece is " Tiger Lily ". I have used the cd shape as a disk for working on and I have sketched a tiger lily onto the disk in free flowing petals. I wanted to use some dimension so I plan on doing them three dimensional, thus the choice of background fabric......orange overdyed silk. I also want to wind leaves and ribbons in as well as other roundelles etc.

I gave this a good trial run on stiff stuff and was not pleased at how it would not be able to actually wrap around a cd when finished so removed the beads and the pattern and have started at square One again.

Materials for my first one include a layer of good muslin, a layer of stiff stuff with the pattern drawn clearly onto this, and a piece of overdyed silk placed on top of this. I then lightly traced through in case I change my mind while stitching.

I picked up my coloured pencils and shaded in the colours that I liked and now know which direction to take the colour in. A gorgeous little face given to me by a special friend " Leslie Urhlich of PinyonCreek fame is the focal point of this piece. I hope to work with assorted sizes of beads and shapes and keep all twelve pieces when done in journal form in a flat layout. I will also design a cover front and back. I know if I write this in here I have to make sure that it gets done and this also allows me to use more than one technique and grow in my beadwork, which is fast becoming my first love right in line with silkribbon work.

Happy Mother's Day

God bless the mom's of the world. May they have the courage to go on and the strength to raise their families in a world so different from most of their pasts.

I view being a mom as the most beautiful experience in my life. A child created out of love, nutured and cared for and raised with both parents having the ability to surround her with love.

My darling Sheralee, if you are reading mom's blog today, know how very proud I am to be your mom and to know that you have such a kind and caring heart. You have grown into a mature young lady of whom mom and dad are so very proud.

I am also proud to call our son-in-law Ken " our son ". He has given us a reason to not worry about your fears even though as parents we do. He has also given us the emotions to want to put the same circle of love around him as we have you.

Know how proud dad and I are of both of you and the greatest blessing that I have on this day is being a mom to you and Ken.

Travel safely, have fun and hopefully we will see you both soon.

If knitting on four needles the pattern is as follows:-

Cast on 24 stitches.Divide and put 8 stitches on three needles.Work 6 rows in twisted rib as follows: Row 1: K1, P1Row 2: K1 into back, P1 repeat Row 2 four times
Eyelet Row: Next row, yarn forward knit two together around - these are the eyelet's.
Knit even in stockinette stitch for 20 rows.
Toes:K2tog on all needles (12 stitches)knit one round even.K2tog on all needles (6 stitches)Knit one round even, thread needle through and gather toe stitches, this gives more shaping.
I then crocheted a chain, an "I' cord could be used instead and or ribbon, but knowing that they may need to be tightened and they can then wear them as they start to grow.

Two needle method.Cast on 24 stitches,Rib as above for 6 rows.Eyelet Row: K1, yarn forward knit two together across the needle,Purl back.Work even in stockinette stitch for 20 rows.Toe:K2tog across row. (12 stitches)Purl one row.K2tog across row. (6 stitches)Purl one row.Remove from needles and draw closed.Catching each knot on the side do an invisible seam.
Make cord as above insert and enjoy.

Materials:

4 ounces of Briggs & Little worsted weight wool. 1 hank of wool roving. This is usually purchased in a large ball and there is more than enough in one ball to make at least three pairs of socks.

Needles 4mm double pointed - set of (4) Needles 3.25 mm double pointed - set of (4)
Size: Lady's Size Large
Gauge: 5 stitches to the inch on larger needles

Working with wool roving:- When working will wool roving pull off do not cut three inch sections. I take the wool roving and pull two seperate strands from the ball, then I tear it off as one piece, and tear off at least 18 sets for each round, only tearing them off as the rounds come up.
Pattern: Using smaller needles cast on 48 stitches ( 16-16-16) work in twisted rib for 20 rows or desired length of cuff.

Twisted rib:- Knit into the back of the knit stitches and then purl. I work in knit one, purl one as it makes a tighter rib.

Change to larger needles and knit three rounds.

To start pattern: Knit two, holding the two strand thrum knit it together with the next stitch. I hold mine on top of the stitch and knit as usual. I use a thrum stitch every third stitch.
On the next round knit in back of the thrum stitch and this will lock the stitch in place.
Repeat the above pattern of three plain rounds and one thrummed round until desired length. In my case it is 8.5 inches from the beginning.

Heel: I do not put the thrum stitches in the heel as I feel it would make it more difficult to put work boots on, but you most certainly can if knitting for snow boots.
Flap: Knit 12 stitches and place remaining stitches on needle two., turn slip one, purl 12 stitches and place remaining stitches on needle two. Working on these stitches only work flap as follows. Row one -* slip one, knit one,* repeat across row. Row two, slip one purl across Repeat until heel flap measures 2.5 inches or desired depth. End with purl side facing.
Turn Heel: Slip one, purl 12, purl (2) together, purl one, turn. slip one, knit (3), knit (2) together, knit one, turn. Slip on, purl (4), purl 2 together, purl one, turn. Repeat until you have 16 stitches on needle.
With same needle continue and pick up and knit 12 stitches down the right side of heel, work across the stitches on the front needle, pick up and knit 12 stitches on the left side of the heel.
Needle one - left side of center heel - knit to with three stitches of end of needle, knit two together knit one, knit across center needle, on next needle knit one, slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over, knit to end of needle.

Next round knit even.

Repeat the above decreases until you have 48 stitches remaining. Redistribute on needles as follows (16-16-16) Knit three rounds, start thrummed round. Repeat for desired length or in my case 6.5 inches.

Shape Toe: Needle one:- Work to last three stitches, knit two together, knit one. Needle two- knit one - slip one - knit one, pass slip stitch over, knit to within last three stitches, knit two together, knit one. Needle three- knit one, slip one, knit one, pass slip stitch over. Round 2- Knit even. Repeat above until you have 24 stitches remaining. Leave 12 inch length of wool for grafting. Graft toe.

Grafting: Place 12 stitches on each of two needles. Using a wool or darning needle* place needle into first stitch on front needle as if to knit and slip off needle, put needle in next stitch on needle as if to purl and leave on needle, let yarn go under the first needle and working on the back needle, insert needle into first stitch on back needle as if to purl and remove from needle, insert needle into next stitch as if to knit and leave on needle.* Go under the needles and back to the front and repeat from * to * until you have one stitch left and secure in place.

The thrummed socks are time intensive but well worth the effort. They are wonderful knit as slippers as well, just make the slipper top shorter.

I am also working on a pattern for arm and leg warmers for accessible wear.

If you are allergic to wool or want to use up scraps of acrylics or odd balls, you can use this pattern and using the approximate three inch lengths of scraps the same way knit some multicolored slippers for those you love. I would recommend putting non skid soles on the bottom for safety sake.

-This pattern is copyrighted as a Linda Boudreau original and may be distributed free of charge, but not to be kitted and resold without express permission of the originator. North Kentville Knits - 1998 copyright.

Miss Peace Sheep

You will be using a smaller than normal knitting needles for this weight of wool, this will make the lattice holes between the stitches smaller and the batting will not show through Read the pattern carefully as the sheep is three dimensional , all parts are reversed, you knit one side then the other The pattern is similar, only larger, in the haunches, the upper being the smaller, the lower being taller The tail is knit with two sections sewn together The face is knit with reverse sides The hooves are knit the same except the lower hooves are knit longer to compensate for balancing the body and adding the socks Do not overstuff as the loop st designed for this pattern, no referred to as Sherpa/loop st fills in very nicely and makes for a very plump sheep. Sew the pieces together as you go so that you do not mix them up. I have done this on numerous occasions while designing this pattern and it was most frustrating. To the best of my knowledge, and not following anyone else's pattern other than a vision of a sewn pattern, this is the first time this sheep has been produced in knitting. My first sheep was knit of a natural colour with black as the contrasting colour. I will knit the next one with black and use steel grey for the features. Have fun and make the sheep with a friend like I did. Lady Diana and I have formed a lasting friendship. Share him/her and enjoy!
Linda Boudreau, North Kentville Knits
Materials: 3 x 100gm skeins of Briggs and Little 2 ply worsted weight wool in natural. 1 x 100gm skeins of Briggs and Little 2 ply worsted weight wool in black.
1 x 100gm skeins of Briggs and Little 2 ply worsted weight wool in red, used 50gms.
1 x 100gm skeins of Briggs and Little 2 ply worsted weight wool in blue, used 50 gms natural.
1 lb. bag (plus a handful) of polyester stuffing.
1 pair of large wire framed glasses, or a piece of clothes hanger wire.
1 x 12 inch length of wooden doweling with round knobs to fit ends for needles or an older pair of knitting needles to cut down to 6 - 8 inches each.
Knitting needles size 3.25mm, (US size 3, UK size 10) and one pair of 5mm knitting needles (US 7, UK 6)
NOTE: To make this achievable by everyone, all knitting, including the socks are knit on straight knitting needles.
Sherpa St Insert needle into the next st knitways, wrap yarn over forefinger and needle a total of four times, start to pull through and place onto the right hand needle, being careful not to pull all the way through, give a gentle tug and knit the next st.
There will always be a sherpa/loop st above a knit st every row. This pattern is knit from the bottom up so that all loops fall down.
The finished sheep measures 16 inches sitting and 24 inches around the upper girth where the haunches are.
Body: make 2 - reverse one Using smaller needles cast on 12 sts
Knit one row
Begin Sherpa/loop st, *K1, loop 1, rep across row.
Note: You may include an edge st at the beginning and end of each row, but this is not included in the numbers in the pattern. I chose not to and it worked out well. Diana chose to and she preferred hers so it is a matter of preference.
Increase one st each end of knit row every 4th row until you have 30 sts
Knit even in pattern until piece measures 5 inches from beginning
Decrease one st every fourth plain knit row until you have 24 sts
Knit even in patt until piece measures 9 inches from beginning
Increase 8 sts at the beginning of the next row (this is for the front neck and is meant to be sloped)
Keeping pattern correct, work across the row
Decrease one st on the opposite end (end not increased on) on every other row until 28 sts remain
Knit even in pattern until work measures 14 inches from beginning
Knit 3, *k2tog across the row
Cast off remaining sts purlways as this gives a more curved edge.
Make another piece the same, making sure that you increase the sts on the end so that the neck slopes in the correct direction, and that the increases and decreases follow the first pattern piece
Set aside until the tail and neck are completed
Head: make 2 - reverse one Using contrasting wool and smaller needles, flip the top neck edge back and pick up 12 sts along the cast off edge, make sure they are picked up under the loops so that the loops will fall over the join when knit
Increase one st in each st across the row (24sts)
Purl one row
Increase one st at each end of this row (26sts)
Work in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl) for 8 more rows, ending with the right side facing
Knit 2 together to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1
Purl 2, purl 2 together, purl to last 3 stitches, purl 2 together, purl 1
Repeat last 2 rows until 17sts remain
Knit even in stocking st for 5 more rows, ending with right side facing
Knit to within last 3 sts, knit 2 together, knit 1
Purl one row
Repeat last 2 rows until 14 sts remain
Work even in stocking stitch for 8 more rows, ending with right side facing
Knit 2 together across row
Cast off purlways loosely
Make another piece the same, making sure you reverse all shaping
Set aside for the moment
Tail: make 2 Using smaller needles and main colour, and continuing with Sherpa/loop st, cast on 6 sts
Knit one row
Loop one, knit to end
Repeat last 2 rows for a total of 2 inches
Knit, increasing one st at each end of the row (8sts)
Loop one, knit to end
Knit even until work measures 4 inches
Cast off knitways
Make another one the same
Assembly Directions for Body, Head and Tail Place the tail right sides together and, keeping the loop st out of the way, stitch around, leaving an opening at the top.
Stuff very lightly and shape down with the squeezing of the tail between your hands. Insert this approximately three inches from the base of the body main part bottom.
The main body is kidney shaped, so make sure it is placed at the correct depth as the sheep will be sitting
With right sides of the body together, stitch head section together very securely, then stitch around entire body, making sure that loops are not caught in the seams, and catching the tail in the back seam.
LEAVE an opening for stuffing in the centre front.
Stuff lightly, so that the stuffing does not show through the loops.
You will have the body stuffed firmly in the head, the neck area is curved as she is looking down, the upper body and the lower body would be stuffed no heavier than a hot water bottle as there are upper and lower haunches that will go on to support this weight.
Stuffed and measured, the fullest part of the kidney shape on the bottom of the prototype measures 21 inches and the fullest part of the head measures 10 inches, just to give an idea as to the amount of stuffing.
Now close the opening using a ladder st, which is take one stitch from one side, pull, go to the opposite side and repeat until the opening is closed. Secure the wool end in the loop/Sherpa and cut close
Upper Haunches: make 4 - reverse 2 (lower haunches are in brackets) Using main colour and smaller needles, cast on 10 (14) sts
Knit one row
Loop 1, Knit 1 across row
Note:Directions in brackets are for reverse side
Increase 1 stitch on the beginning (end) of the next row
Knit 1, loop 1 across row
Repeat last 2 rows until you have 16 (20) stitches
Decrease 4 (6) stitches at the beginning (end) of the next row
Increase 1 stitch on the right (left) side, knit to end 13 (17) stitches
Loop 1, knit 1 across row
Dec 1, k to last 2 sts, knit 2 together 15 (21) sts
Knit 1, loop 1 across the row
Knit 2 together across row, this forms the upper haunch curve
Cast off loosely purlways
Make a total of 4 as described above, reversing 2. Set aside
Upper Hooves: make 4 (instructions for lower hooves are in brackets) Using contrasting colour and smaller needles, pick up 7 stitches from under a loop stitch row, this is done with wrong side facing, and is picked up on the even edge that has been maintained before the decrease to form the curve in the haunches
Increase 1 stitch in each stitch across the row, 14sts
Work 14 (24) rows stocking stitch, ending with right side facing
Knit 2 together across the row
Cast off purlways
Make 3 more the same, either attaching to the haunches or knitting separate and adding later, depending on your preference
Assembly directions for Haunches and Hooves With right sides together, and being careful not to catch loops, stitch around entire haunch leaving a small opening in the bottom part for stuffing.
Stuff very firmly, but not so firm that it shows through the stitches as the weight of the knitting needles will rest on the upper haunches and the weight of the sheep itself will rest on the bottom haunches.
The prototype measures 12 inches around the fullest part of the upper haunches and 6.5 inches on the hooves.
Stuff the hooves so that the wadding or stuffing does not show through.
Ears: make 2 The ears are long and loopy
Using main colour and smaller needles, cast on 3 stitches
Loop 1, knit 1, loop 1
Increase one, k to last st, increase 1 (5sts)
Repeat last 2 rows until you have 11 sts
Work even in pattern for a total of 5 more pattern repeats (10 rows)
Do not cast off
Break main colour leaving a tail for sewing and add contrasting colour. Knit straight without shaping until you are close to the top of the ear, then knit 2 together across the row. This forces the ear to rill to the inside and point away from the head.
With wrong sides together slip stitch all around the ear, fold the bottom end to form a pleat and sew to the head with the ear pointing about one inch down from the centre head seam
Assembly Now add the haunches, sit Miss Peace Sheep up and using the wool doubled, if it will not be used or tugged about, if not use dental floss, take a two inch stitch on the inside of the lower haunches, push the needle through to the other side and repeat, pass the needle back and forth and tighten so that they will sit straight, wrap the yarn/floss tightly, go back through again and secure. This makes the sheep movable.
For eyes take a quarter and draw a circle on a white piece of felt, add a point each side of the circle about one half inch away and connect the dots to form an oval eye shape. Cut two out and appliqué to the sheep. I then go over these with wool using a satin stitch and I am assured of perfect eyes every time. Now take a dime and trace onto a black piece of felt, cut it out and repeat. When finished, put a small white dot in each eye for a highlight.
On the mouth form a wide spaced "V" at the very front, if using a dark colour such as black, use a steel grey for the mouth.
For the glasses, if you have not purchased a ready-made pair, bend a piece of wire over a pencil to form the bridge for the nose, now using a piece of doweling or a pill bottle, make two loops each side for the lenses, then pull the wire directly back for the arms. Tack in place with small stitches on the face.
Add a sheep's bell with a ribbon or tassel of wool.
Nan's Shawl
Tension: 5 stitches and 8 garter stitch rows equal one inch on larger needles.
Using colour of your choice cast on 4 stitches
Knit
*Knit 2, yarn forward, knit to end (5sts)
Repeat from * until you have 20 stitches on the needle.
Lace hole row: *Knit 2, yarn forward, knit 2 together repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit 3
Keeping continuity of pattern, and increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of each row, work a lace row every ten rows. Continue until you have enough stitches to go round your sheep comfortably.
Cast off loosely knitways.
You now have a triangular shawl that, when placed on the sheep, has a turned back upper edge to form a shawl collar and meets perfectly in the front to be closed either with a tassel or a pin of your choice. Make a tassel if desired and attach to base of shawl. Fringe if desired.
The above shawl pattern is a Diana MacDonald original to accompany Miss Peace Sheep
Nan's Little Blue Sockies
Tension: 10 stitches and 16 rows equal 2 inches on smaller needles.
Using smaller straight needles and blue worsted weight wool cast on 32 stitches
Work 6 rows in twisted rib (K1, P1 rib, but knit and purl into the back of each stitch)
Knit 1 row
*Knit one, yarn forward, knit 2 together, rep from * to the last stitch, knit 1
Knit 2 rows garter stitch. This forms the lace or beading row
Knit 1 purl 1 for 5 more rows, ending with right side facing
Work one more lace hole, or beading row
Work 10 rows knit 1 purl 1 ribbing
Knit 2 together across the row
Cast off
Sew back seam
Insert ribbon or cord through the first row of eyelets and place on the sheep.
Make 2
The above sock pattern is a Diana MacDonald original to accompany Miss Peace Sheep
For simplicity you can cast on 22 stitches and knit for approximately 10 inches, or pick your own favourite pattern and knit the strip that will be placed on the knitting needles attached to the sheep. I have used the old shale pattern from the Mary Thomas Book of Knitting.
I chose to make my needles from doweling and sharpened it in a pencil sharpener, then cut them about 6 inches long and added a knob to each end. You can either cross them in the centre of the knitting, so that it does not slide off, or get brave as I did and remove the needles, slip them through the inner hooves, insert into knitting, dividing in half, and glue at centre, then take a long strand and insert back into the back haunch so that it looks like the sheep is knitting from herself.
I have never designed a toy or animated character before, but this has truly been an inspiration and pattern from someone stronger than I and I am proud to say I have named my sheep out of my love of the two most important people in my life. She shall be called "Sherpat", after my daughter Sheralee and my wonderful husband Patrick, who is my best critic and was kind enough to say, it does look like a sheep. Have fun!
Linda Boudreau
Copyrighted for reproduction only to accompany main pattern and not to be distributed for profit. This disclaimer must accompany the pattern. This pattern, along with the Miss Peace Sheep pattern cannot be kitted or sold, but is for personal use only. It may, however, be passed out with the purchase of wool to knit same.

This is the beginning of a small clutch that will hold dangles from the centre beading fashion bead. All of these beads and sequins are readily available at department stores.......not to advertise any in particular and for special beads I have to purchase the little MH packets from the fabric stores.

I want to do this one on black with a larger feature going over the fold on the clutch. Once again this is from a Ruth Wilson design for the actual beading and she is a fantastic hands on teacher with her works. Her book on beading is out of print but her patterns appear is several needlework publications over the years and her descriptions are like having a teacher in your living room. No affilliation just share the same love of heirloom embroidery.

The beauty of champagne crocheted with the everlasting love of pineapple crochet and combined with the shell stitch has turned this work of art by Leisure Arts into a piece of art that I would do again and again.

I must admit that the pattern is very simple until you get to the pineapples and then you have to watch each row, but the ravelling and re=crocheting were well worth the effort, this is my favourite by far. It will be lined with an antique wwhite slip. Both of the gowns on this blog are true labours of love as the time involved is starting from one ball of thread to completion.

5-hour baby sweater knit in blue astra sparkle doubled. This is a gorgeouos pattern to knit and one that I normally have a few on hand for gifts for babies.

Started last year and just completed yesterday. This is crocheted in size 10 cotton and I have added my own special touches. The pattern is from a Leisure Arts leaflet and once started easily read and accomplished.

Handknit baby set for my heirloom collection. Started several years ago and just completing today. I also notice I will have to add the ribbons again as the hat is inside out. The things we do when we don't like finishing in a hurry.

Whitework again. This one will be a pendant with a beaded tassel finge hanging from the bottom and a beaded chain going to the neck that will be removable. This is an Ann Benson pattern that I have reworked in my style of beads in tones of white and champagne. I hope to start work on a collar next. I would love the collar to be able to be adapted to different styles of outfits and create them as well to be worn with evening wear.

Whitework is an obcession with me lately and I have finished my first piece of french hand beading. It is done in the same colours as the original. It is a Ruth Wilson pattern from an older book and I have done mine on white linen. I want to turn this one into a forties style clutch purse with the hard shell and the snap closure. My favourite part of this piece was adding the collages of beads in groups of three and a sequin.